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Incredible Oven Spring & Silky Crumb: Egg & Milk Pullman Loaf❤️
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爱做面包的太阳花
爱做面包的太阳花
May 6, 2021
ToastOld Dough

Incredible Oven Spring & Silky Crumb: Egg & Milk Pullman Loaf❤️

爆发力超强内部组织超细腻的蛋奶吐司❤️

Oven Temp
180°C / 356°F
Bake Time
30 min
Batch Yield
1 450g loaves

🍞 Formula & Measurements

  • •With Old Dough: Egg 60g
  • •With Old Dough: Old dough (pâte fermentée) 87g
  • •With Old Dough: Bread flour 230g
  • •With Old Dough: Sweetened condensed milk 10g
  • •With Old Dough: Sugar 20g (add 15g more if you prefer a sweet loaf)
  • •With Old Dough: Salt 3g
  • •With Old Dough: Icy cold milk 90g
  • •With Old Dough: Instant dry yeast 3g
  • •With Old Dough: Butter 20g
  • •Without Old Dough: Egg 60g
  • •Without Old Dough: Bread flour 270g
  • •Without Old Dough: Sweetened condensed milk 10g
  • •Without Old Dough: Sugar 20g (add 15g more if you prefer a sweet loaf)
  • •Without Old Dough: Salt 3g
  • •Without Old Dough: Icy cold milk 120g
  • •Without Old Dough: Instant dry yeast 3g
  • •Without Old Dough: Butter 20g

Our backyard hen laid an extra-large egg today, so I decided to bake an egg and milk Pullman loaf. Since I also had some leftover old dough (pâte fermentée) from yesterday, I made the old-dough version shown in the ingredient photo. Below, I have written out both versions: with and without old dough.

❤️At the end of this post, I shared my personal tips for preventing a dense gummy bottom streak and getting a tall oven spring.

🍞Ingredients: (For one 450g Pullman loaf pan)

🍭With Old Dough Version:

Egg 60g, old dough (pâte fermentée) 87g, bread flour 230g, sweetened condensed milk 10g, sugar 20g (this amount tastes savory-neutral and works great for sandwiches; add an extra 15g sugar if you prefer a sweet loaf), salt 3g, icy cold milk 90g, instant dry yeast 3g, butter 20g.

🍭Without Old Dough Version:

Egg 60g, bread flour 270g, sweetened condensed milk 10g, sugar 20g (savory-neutral for sandwiches; add 15g more for a sweet loaf), salt 3g, icy cold milk 120g, instant dry yeast 3g, butter 20g.

🍞Instructions:

1️⃣Mix all ingredients except the butter into a rough dough, then cover and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes (Photos 3 and 4).

2️⃣After chilling, the dough will easily mix to the thick membrane stage. Add the softened butter and mix until you reach full windowpane stage (a thin, translucent membrane). Shape into a tight ball for the first proof (Photo 5).

3️⃣Once doubled in size, gently degas, divide the dough into 3 equal portions, round into balls, and let bench rest for 15 minutes before shaping (Photos 6 and 7).

4️⃣Place in a warm, humid spot for the second proof until the pan is 90% full. Bake at 180°C for about 30 minutes, tenting with aluminum foil as soon as the top is golden brown.

5️⃣Tap the pan firmly on the counter upon removing from the oven, unmold immediately, and cool on a wire rack.

🔆Helpful Tips:

1. As the weather warms up, controlling dough temperature is critical. Chilling the mixed dough for 30 minutes solves this effortlessly.

2. Give the dough a full bench rest so it rolls out smoothly without snapping back. After rolling into an oval tongue shape, flip it over so the smooth skin faces outward when coiling.

3. Thin out the bottom edge before sealing, and pinch the seam gently rather than overly tight.

4. Ensure plenty of humidity during the second proof.

5. Bake your Pullman pan on the lower-middle rack. Strong bottom heat is essential to drive upward oven spring and prevent a dense gummy streak at the bottom.

💡 Baker's Q&A & Troubleshooting (5)

Distilled from Author's Notes
Q:Why does my dough feel very sticky toward the end of mixing?
A:Assuming the formula ratios and dough temperature are on track, keep mixing on low speed and scrape down the mixer bowl if it clings. Once the dough reaches full windowpane development, it will pull cleanly away from the bowl into a cohesive ball and won't stick to your hands. However, if the dough was already smooth and elastic earlier and then turned sticky and slack, it was overmixed and the gluten broke down. Keep practicing, you've got this!
Q:What is the difference between baking this with old dough versus without old dough?
A:1. Old dough boosts fermentation speed. My yeast tends to start slowly, and adding old dough noticeably shortens proofing time. 2. Old dough refines the crumb structure and strengthens gluten elasticity, helping the loaf rise taller. 3. It slows down staling. The easiest way to get old dough is to mix a little extra dough whenever you bake bread and freeze or refrigerate the extra piece. You can also check my salted butter roll post for a dedicated old dough formula.
Q:If I want to bake this as a lidded Pullman loaf, what adjustments should I make?
A:For a lidded square loaf, proof until the pan is 70% to 80% full rather than 90% full. In my oven, a lidded pan also needs a few extra minutes of bake time compared to an open-top mountain loaf.
Q:My recent loaves have been so frustrating: weak dough, coarse crumb, and a gummy bottom streak. I feel like giving up!
A:Could it be your flour? Try switching to a high-protein bread flour. Also, don't hesitate to take a few days off! My own baguette practice lately has been rough too, even worse than loaves I baked years ago. Don't get discouraged; let's keep practicing together!
Q:What does 'bench rest' mean?
A:It simply means covering the divided dough balls and letting them sit undisturbed on the counter for 15 minutes so the gluten relaxes before rolling out.

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